Low pH

[bluwtr]

I did a VERY large water change over the weekend and since then my pH has been lower-7.8-than in the past--for some history, my pH has always been 8.1-8.2. What made me take notice was that my LTA "shuttled off its mortal coils" and I read somewhere that anemones are very sensitive to changes in pH, even small ones. All of my other water params are great--NH3-0, NO2-0, NO3->10, PO4-0, Ca+-420, alk-4.29 meq/L, 32ppt/ 1.024sg, 80F. I called Gerwin and asked him what he recomende--outside aeration. I did for an hour and my reading did change some, but I believe on .1. I then aerated the tank for 4.5 hours--retested and no change. My question is what to do now? I'm going to bring a sample by the store and see what they get but it won't be until Thursday--have a seminar tomorrow.

Thanks for any advice and help.

Wes

[Doug]

I would have to ask what prompted the VERY large water change?

[Gz28]

I have always struggled to keep my ph at 8.0 Before i started using reef crystals it was almost impossible to get it above 7.8. I immediatally noticed it was easier to keep at 8.0 with the reef crystals. I dose b-ionic 2 part alk/calcium once a week.

[bluwtr]

Doug, my nitrates were getting too high and water changes, less feeding and increased photo period increase wasn't keeping up. Also I wanted to change my aquascapeing.

I just read an article about salt mix testing. Never thought abput it, but different mixes produce different pH. I use Instant Ocean. The article claimed that IO always had high pH. I sure haven't seen it.

[phisher]

Looks like to Doug's point, the high nitrate is likely what caused the anem to start stressing more so than the ph drop.

Mine swings naturally from 8.3 to 8.0 in the course of a 24 hr period, if you are using test kits try checking it just before the lights go out then again in the morning. If you are looking at 7.9 in the morning but have 8.1 or 8.2 at the end of your day light cycle, then there may not be an issue. Also mix up some fresh salt water and test it.

[bluwtr]

Okay, I can go with that, but what is causing my high NO3+? I've got 9 fish and feed lightly generall once a day but sometimes twice. My skimmer is barely skimming since my H2O change as well. I tested my nitrates again this afternoon and they are at 15ppm now. I'm not sure what in the hell is going on! LOL! Thinking I may need to starve my fish every other day and see what happens, but I don't want to stress them and have them get sick--bloody double edged sword!

Ideas, suggestions? I'm taking a sample by the store tomorrow and see what they get and make sure my tests are screwed.

Wes

[phisher]

Hard to say without knowing your system. Nine fish sounds like a lot unless you have a pretty large, established tank. What are you using for filtration also? A lot of methods create a ton of nitrate. Also what skimmer? Protein skimmers do such a nice job of removing pollutants before they break down in the nitrites and nitrates, if you skimmer isn't producing 24 hrs after a water change its either not dialed in right or not very efficient.

Lastly, "dilution is the solution for pollution." Establish a regular water change regiment, I really think you will see the best results this way.

[bluwtr]

Hey Phish, to save my typing it all over my tank is described in my profile. My skimmer is the same one Gerwin sells. It was producing 24, but I think I just have it set on the dry side. If there is much skimate in the morning I will lower the cup a fraction. As far as the fish, I've got--two green chromis, two bi-color damsels, two percula clowns, a purple dottyback, a firefish and a yellow watchman. Also, have a flame scallop, a couple of bivalves (don't know the type--came on some rock) a sifting star, about 15 hermits and two snails. My water is crystal clear, no smell, and really not detritus on the bottom. All of the fish totaled are about 19 inches of fish. I know in SW you aren't supposed to go by the old 1" per gallon rule, but I'm not even close there so I don't think I'm over loaded, but hell you never know.

[Gerwin]

if you have not already done this remove the sponges form the power filters / canister filters, maintain only your chemical filtration media in them. I'm thinking we reduce all avenues of nitrification other than the live rock if possible. Read on those NP pellets as well

[bluwtr]

Hey Gerwin, I haven't removed them but will since you are suggesting, but tell me what that will do. Will this cause any problems with particulates since I will be removing the main mechanical filtration? Also, what was the actual name of that product so I can read up on it.

Thanks as always,
Wes

[Gerwin]

NP Biopellets

one theory on reef tanks is to keep as much nitrification as possible isolated to the live rock/ sand bed. There you have some possible conversion of nitrates to nitrogenous gases that will liberate from the tank. In conventional media like sponges/bioballs/wheels etc you are only producing nitrates with no actual means to a end at that point. Basically anywhere other than rocks / deep sand beds, you have NO3 producing power plants.

[bluwtr]

Cool. Thanks for the advice. Will remove the sponges tomorrow.