Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?

Chef Steve · Post by **Chef Steve** » Mon Jan 24, 2011 11:46 pm

I currently have a 29 g tank set up and running with the lights to run coral. I have not started to put coral in the tank, and didn't want to until I knew what I needed to look for. I didn't want to get in over my head. Any suggestions for first corals to place in the tank.

bluwtr · Post by **bluwtr** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:04 am

How old is your tank and what kind of lighting do you have?

I imagine that you could start with a leater or mushrooms or other type of softy. They are pretty hardy. As long as your water params are stable and the tank has been up for a while I imagine you would have no problem. I put the water in my tank on 9/10/10. I added my first corals, two leathers (and a red carnation) about a month ago when they were given to me. One leather almost didn't make it (bad shape when I got it) but the other one is growing like crazy. The red carnation is no longer with us--it is a very advanced coral, but it was given to me so what was I to do. You can see how happy the leather is by looking in my post about "first tank pics".

Chef Steve · Post by **Chef Steve** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 10:22 am

My tank is probably two and a half months old if not longer. I had my tank running in a 10 gallon to start with the. Jumped to a 29. I just put the already oxygenated water in the 29. I currently do not have many fish and maybe 20-25 lbs of rock. I just got a double bulb t5 with one blue and one white. As far as I can tell my water is ok. My salinity has been constant and I have been checking ph ammonia and nitrates, along with water changes. This is my first tank but I have been very cautious as to not rush things

bluwtr · Post by **bluwtr** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 12:08 pm

Sounds like you are right on track. You should have zero ammonia by now as well as nitrites. If you have either, then your tank cycle hasn't ended or you're having a small one. You really don't need to test for those after the cycle unless you have something disappear. Then an ammonia spike will indicate it died. I test for NH4 and NO2 only once a month now. You should be testing pH, alk, Ca+, NO3 and when you get into hard corals Mg+ as well. It's a really good idea to test for phospates also, because PO4 contributes to algae problems. Gerwin can advise you on your lighting as far as having enough PAR, but you can definitely have some soft corals and eventually some hard ones as well I think.

HTH,

Wes

Chef Steve · Post by **Chef Steve** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:39 pm

AWESOME! THANKS MAN. WITH THE ADDITION OF THE CORALS, DO I NEED TO ADD ELEMENTS TO THE WATER? I READ ON SOME BLOGS THAT I MIGHT HAVE TO START ADDING ELEMENTS TO SUSTAIN THE CORALS. I FIGURED THAT THIS WAS ONLY WHEN I HAD A LARGE AMOUNT OF CORALS IN MY TANK. i HAVEN'T CHECKED MY WATER IN ABOUT A WEEK. i AM CURRENTLY IN THE CHEM LAB GETTING READY FOR MY STUDENTS TO ARRIVE. i WILL TEST MY WATER WITH MY TEST KIT AND POST THE READINGS. THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR ADVICE.

STEPHEN

bluwtr · Post by **bluwtr** » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:54 pm

You're welcome. No you will not need to add any suppliments UNLESS tests dictate it or when you get a heavily stocked SPS tank. 99% of what corals need will be added/supplimented with water changes. Granted, Ca+, Alk, and Mg are consumed, but as long as Mg is right (1300-1500ppm) your Ca+ and Alk will be good. The latter two can't be utilized without Mg. Dripping Kalk or using a two part takes care of this. Now, if you've got a large tank that is very heavily stocked you will have to move up to something like a reactor. Talk to Gerwin or Archie for expert advice and they can really set you straight.

Chef Steve · Post by **Chef Steve** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 12:43 pm

I used the tests that I purchased. my ammonia is 0 mg, nitrite is <3 mg/l, and pH is somewhere between 7.7-8.0. I do not have a test for Magnesium. Should I go purchase one of those? I bought my first coral yesterday. I believe it was some kind of zoo. It seems to be doing fine. Although I have to check my water carefully now since my hydrometer is off.

bluwtr · Post by **bluwtr** » Thu Jan 27, 2011 5:18 pm

Before you buy anything always read up on it first. That way you already know what its care will be. If you got Zo's your params will be fine. They are a soft coral and as such require little to no Ca+. No calcium carbonate skeleton.

I didn't make my previous post quite clear. If Mg is low then the other two can precipitate out and no matter how much you dose, you levels will be low. Also, kalk does NOT provide Mg; only Ca+ and alk.

Congrats on the new critters and good luck.

Wes

Post by **Gerwin** » Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:12 am

bluwtr wrote:You're welcome. No you will not need to add any suppliments UNLESS tests dictate it or when you get a heavily stocked SPS tank. 99% of what corals need will be added/supplimented with water changes. Granted, Ca+, Alk, and Mg are consumed, but as long as Mg is right (1300-1500ppm) your Ca+ and Alk will be good. The latter two can't be utilized without Mg. Dripping Kalk or using a two part takes care of this. Now, if you've got a large tank that is very heavily stocked you will have to move up to something like a reactor. Talk to Gerwin or Archie for expert advice and they can really set you straight.

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Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?

Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?

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Re: Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?

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Re: Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?

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Re: Tank Ready for Corals? suggestions?